Anatomy of the Sewing Machine
All sewing machine have the basic components in the same place and although they differ greatly in functions and facilities (depending on the type and price of the machine), it is comforting of know that the basic anatomy of the sewing machine are always the same.
Anatomy of the Sewing Machine:
Many sewing machines are self-lubricating nowadays, so you don’t need to oil them (although they do still need maintenance) and most will have the drop feed dogs facility, allowing you to control the direction you stitch and the length of the stitch. Here are the basic components that make up the anatomy of sewing machine.
All sewing machines are the basic components in the same place, and even when they differ greatly in the features and facilities (depending on the type and price of the machine), it is reassuring to know that the base is always the same.
Many self-lubricating sewing machines these days, so you do not need the oil (though they still need maintenance), and most have the drop feed system so that you can control the direction you point and the length of the stitches. The elements of which the basic anatomy of a sewing machine.
Anatomy of the Sewing Machine:
Needle: This has a flat back on the shank which fits into the needle holder, flat to back tighten the needle by hand and then with the supplied screwdriver so that it cannot work loose when stitching. The needle position can be altered on most machines. From left center to right and variations in between on more expensive machines. This enables you to stitch close to the fabric edge, at a regular (1.5cm) away, or further left to provide a wider seam allowance.
Throat plate: Usually made of metal, this has holes through which the feed dogs moves as well as a hole for the needle. It will also have marking to the right of the needle showing different spacing from the default needle position to create specific seam allowances.
Feed dogs: These are the jagged gripper teeth that come up through the throat plate to help move the fabric through the machine as you sew. They work in conjunction with the passer foot. Most machines now have a facility to drop the feed dogs, which means they are lowered and stay below the throat plate so do not guide the fabric at all. This is useful if you wish to decide the direction you stitch.
Bobbin cover: On sewing machine with drop-in bobbins, this is usually a plastic cover that forms part of the throat plate. Generally, it has a printed guide that shows you how to thread the bobbin once. It is dropped in place. On front- loading machines, the bobbin case is part of the body of the machine, which opens up to reveal the bobbin holder.
Bobbin: The bobbin thread links with the top thread to form the stitches when the needle comes down through the throat plate. The bobbin thread forms the underside of the stitching. Top-loading-prop in bobbins is easy to insert by simply dropping in place and laying the thread through the tension, as shown on the bobbin cover. Front loading bobbins sit inside a metal case. This is then inserted into the body of the machine at the front. It is important to ensure that the shaped case (which has a protruding arm) is inserted into its slot correctly so that it doesn’t work itself loose. Make sure you insert the bobbin the right way round as it can cause skipped stitches or broken thread. If it is not inserted correctly.
Bobbin winding: Usually locate on the top of the machine the bobbin is placed on the winding spindle and thread. Laid through a bobbin tension disc (following a printed path). The bobbin spindle may then need to be moved toward the winder. Which in turn disengages the sewing mechanism needle while winding the bobbin. Most bobbins will stop automatically when they are full.
Threading path: There is usually a clearly printed and printed a numbered path to follow when threading the top thread. First the thread spool is put on the spindle and then kept in place with a thread retainer disc (this prevents the reel from bouncing up and down the spindle which is turn prevent threads tangling and snapping). The thread spindle may be upright or lie horizontally. The thread will then go through a loop or hook down and up through the tension disc.
Thread cutter: Many new sewing machines have an auto needle threaded to help thread the eye of the needle quickly and easily. This may be operated with the touch of a button or buy lowering a ravel If your machine doesn’t have one hold a small scrap of white paper behind the needle eye when threading as helps to make the eye more visible.
Presser foot: the presser foot holds the fabric flat and helps to feed it through as you stitch. Most are Snap-On or clip-on, making them easy to remove and replace. Bernini models have a shank attached to the presser foot, which is inserted onto a holder. Lots of different presser feet are available in varying shapes and indentations to help with different sewing techniques.
Presser foot lever: This is accessed through the sewing area and to the back of the thread path. The lever is raised to raise the presser foot and lowered to lower the presser foot. Always make sure it is raised when threading the machine.